View from the Top: Kinkead Ridge Estate Winery, by Joe Frey

Standing stop Kinkead Ridge above the river town of Ripley, you can almost hear the Italian Piedmont whisper. Dusky landscape layers hint of romance, and it will strike even the casual observer that this part of Ohio is very special. Ron Barrett and Nancy Bentley have established on this piece of Ohio land a vineyard that produces revelations. Back-breaking work and an engineer's unflinching attention to detail set the tone four years ago when Barrett first planted his vines. Rich limestone soils, unspoiled by glacial fingers, and a ridge-top location that would turn a glass of Beajolais green with envy provide the canvas on which winemaker Barrett paints his magic.

The one-time student of Oregon Pinot Noir master Dick Erath has made himself into a virtuoso, bottled Revelation 2001, a wine that Erath at first taste called "dynamite." Its cherry, plum and blackberry hints and slightly peppery finish complete a wine that epitomizes what the vineyard can produce.

"The quality of [Barrett's] wines demonstrates unequivocally that his area of Ohio can produce world-class wines," Erath says.

Barrett and Bentley scouted sites in Oregon, Washington and Ohio for what they envisioned would be an estate vineyard that would produce first-rate wine. Barrett visited the ridge-top site eight times and poured over soil charts and the area's geologic record before deciding to transplant his and Bentley's life into Ohio's earth.

Barrett, a confident but humble individualist who is an engineer by trade and grew up in Columbus, found the transition from Oregon to Ohio easier than Bentley. She's at least 20 miles from the nearest latte, and the Staten Island, New York native makes no bones about her shortcomings as a farmer, which is why she handles the marketing side of the business.

Bentley, a computer scientist and chef par excellence who builds web site in her spare time, knows the ins and outs of the restaurant business, so she can get chefs to at least listen to her pitch.

"I find in the general population, there's a real thirst for decent Ohio wine," says Bentley. "But restaurants are a tough sell."

"We're out to prove a point, Barrett says. Step one was proving the ridge top could produce fruit that competes globally. Step two is getting other people involved in everything - from recruiting more farms to grow wine grapes in the region to chatting up chefs and distributors to offer consumers more Ohio River Valley wine.

The entire operation has been a challenge since day one, and Barrett and Bentley -- both over the age of 50 -- concede that if they had known in 1999 what they know now, Kinkead Ridge Vineyard would still be a dream floating above the river highlands.

Winery construction was delayed in 2002 because of problems with the builder. A hundred-year frost gripped the site in '02, costing the vineyard most of its crop, and because Kinkead Ridge didn't have a winery in 2001, Barrett and Bentley made 14 trips to Wolf Creek Winery in Norton near Akron to make the inaugural vintage.

Those roadblocks are in the past, however, and shouldn't stop visitors from descending upon Ripley this Labor Day weekend to experience the fruit of Barrett and Bentley's labors. The couple will be guiding vineyard tours, and the winery will be open for tasting three wines (while supplies last); 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, 2001 Revelation and 2001 Syrah.

Other vintages to be released later this year include a Viognier-Roussanne blend that has a nice grassy and floral nose with a clean finish, and Revelation 2002 (almost entirely Cabernet Franc), which features a nose of earth and mushrooms and hints of meat, cherry and spice.

"I'm beginning to realize we can be outstanding in a good vintage -- in a league with Bordeaux and California, especially in red varieties," Barrett says.

A bold statement to be sure.